Bollywood chic

[attach]1099[/attach]A day after the announcement that Toronto will host the 2011 International Indian Film Academy Awards, I check out Toronto’s Little India, officially known as Gerrard India Bazaar.

It’s two weeks before Christmas and the windchill is -15 degrees Celsius. Like many in the western world this time of year, I’m stressed, tired, distracted and grouchy.

Thankfully the bright colours and bejeweled bling of this South Asian enclave provide a fast-acting antidote to my foul mood.

If like me you’re traveling to foreign shopping climes, remember this important retail rule: do your research beforehand.

I arrive before noon to dark shops, and learn from a young man smoking a cigarette in a shop doorway that most stores don’t open until noon or 12:30 p.m., some not until 4 p.m. That’s because they stay open late, until 9 or 10 p.m., and even 11 p.m. in the summer.

Out of necessity the first leg of my journey is spent peeping at window displays and pressing my nose against the glass to get a better gander at what’s in store.

In Bombay Fashion, a sign in the window reads “Blowout, all items 50 percent off.” Talk about temptation.

There’s a whole wall of jewellery and an entire centre table filled with sparkly stuff. Alas, I’m too far away to read the price tags.

In the window display a tag on a gorgeous bead encrusted orange outfit reads $370. Nearby, beaded tops that almost look like bustiers are $59-69.99 or so. They have coins dangling from them and have matching skirts.

If I were into belly dancing I’d consider this outfit as a costume.

1610B Gerrard St. East, 416-466-6185

A few shops west, Poma Clothing is also closed. I’m not exactly up on traditional Indian attire but judging by the window this place seems to cater to a trendier client.

Designer-inspired handbags hang in the window and the dress featured there, a short multi-tiered affair, looks more like a runway design even with the traditional pants underneath.

Lovely bright green and pink and yellow beaded A-line dresses with scarves have a definite cocktail party vibe to them.

Further inside the shop some pretty velveteen bags with beads and embroidery catch my eye — they come in solid black, green or light pink and I make a mental note to go back soon to check the price.

1602 Gerrard St. East, 416-913-8140

Finally, around 12:30 some shops start opening. I walk into Neelam Silk, amazed. It’s like a big, modern department store of saris and other traditional Indian garb, with gleaming white tiles reflecting the light from a humongous chandelier hanging over the staircase to the second level.

There’s a 60 percent off sale now as new sari styles are arriving in the new year and it’s time to clear out.

I get a crash course on traditional Indian costuming. The outfit I admired in the first window is an Anarkali suit. They’re sold here without the sleeves but the lady can sew them on for you. In layman’s terms it’s a fitted dress that goes down to the mid-calf, with leggings on the bottom.

Meanwhile the cropped beaded blouse with long straight wrap-around skirt is a Lengha suit. A stunning gauzy and beaded blue one is about $800.

Display cases galore feature machine-made and handmade saris, but the hand-woven silks ones with hand-sewn bead work averaging $800-900 (minus the discount) look like they’re worth every penny. They’re for special occasions like weddings but I’d frame one as art on a long wall — saris, I learn, are typically 5 metres long.

1463 Gerrard St. East, 416-465-3040

Across the street Milans Saree Emporium has also just opened. The window looks like a festive golden party, filled with mannequins wearing gilt garb and matching flowing saris.

There’s clothing and giftware and pashminas but I hone in on the bling. A central counter houses cases of costume jewellery, from simple gold-tone chains to more elaborate glass beaded chokers and head pieces.

Sparkling beaded shoes are $80 but are $60 the day I visit. The champagne hued ones would be fab for holidays doos for this western gal.

I may go back for the faux pearl and crystal charm bracelet that looks more Chanel than Bollywood, $20.

1460 Gerrard St. East, 416-462-0020.