Risotto reigns, not pasta

[attach]2969[/attach]Suggest Italian food and what do you think of first? I’d be willing to bet you’d say pasta.

But did you know that Italy is the largest European producer of rice? Rice was brought into the Po Valley in the 14th century by Venetian and Genoese merchants, and rapidly became the basis for one of Italy’s gifts to the gastronomic world – risotto.

Many countries make rice-based dishes — jambalaya, paella, pilaf, biryani — but no other cuisine prepares it with the starchier Carnaroli, Arborio or Vialone nano varieties. These absorb the broth, becoming fat and succulent.

True risotto is an art – a careful juxtaposition of creaminess and slightly al dente grains of rice. The creaminess in good risotto has nothing to do with dairy products, but is a result of starch being released during cooking. The key is to use the right kind of rice and to add hot liquid slowly during the cooking process.

It’s probable that the original risotto was Milanese – golden with the threads of saffron that suffuse it. But risotto can be made with many different vegetables, meats, fish, seafood and legumes. The broth can be chicken, vegetable or beef, but white wine is essential.

At PROP on St. Clair, chef Giancarlo Carnevale has several risottos on the menu including white bean, beet and Nero (made with cuttlefish ink). Many of the recipes are family ones, but my favourite is his own personal creation – chestnut risotto. He uses Carnaroli rice because its medium grain “stays true and holds its texture.” And he uses his own capon broth. The dish can be made truly vegetarian by using vegetable broth. Guests can request this at the restaurant as well.

Basic risotto – usually called Risotto in Bianco – is simply made with rice, stock, wine and generous quantities of parmesan cheese. Try this basic risotto recipe and vary it by adding the appropriate broth and ingredients.

For example, a really superb mushroom risotto can be achieved by soaking dry porcini in just enough hot stock to cover. The resulting mushroom-scented broth is used for preparing the risotto and portobello, oyster, cremini and shiitake mushrooms can be either grilled or sautéed and added to the risotto.

Chef Giancarlo’s Chestnut Risotto

1/4 cup white onions, chopped
2 tbsp butter
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup Carnaroli rice
1-1.5 cups capon, chicken or veggie broth
1/4 cup parmesan cheese
10 chestnuts, boiled, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tbsp. butter
Grated nutmeg to taste

Saute the onions in butter and olive oil in a 12-inch pan. Add the rice and slowly stir in 1/4 cup broth. Keep stirring until absorbed but not soft. Keep adding broth broth and stirring until rice is cooked.

Add the chestnuts, butter and parmesan cheese and stir together well. Top with a grating of fresh nutmeg. Serve.